Woman November 28 1959 Page 41

PERM NOW -for parties ahead says HELEN TEMPLE, Beauty Editor
 DON’T let straggly hair make you a stay-at-home girl. To win pretty compliments learn how to get the best results from your home perm. It's only by pre-perm planning and sticking to directions that you can be sure of a soft, natural hairstyle.
 Which type to use? You have a choice between the kind that makes use of a neutralizing lotion, and the kind that does without. The first gets the whole perm finished quicker, the second means less time actually working on your hair, but far longer before you can take the curlers out.
 Both types start with the same routine of shampooing; dividing the hair into sections; applying waving lotion; winding the hair on to curlers; then rewetting each curl with waving lotion.
 If you're using a perm with neutralizer, the next step is to rinse your hair with water, then saturate very thoroughly with neutralizer. Then you unwind curlers, neutralize again, and set your hair as you wish.
 Non-neutralizer or “one lotion” perms, are rinsed out with water only, but they must be rinsed thoroughly. Then your hair is left to dry on the curlers for at least five hours, while the oxygen in the air together with the water left in your hair combine to neutralize your perm naturally.
 But before you start thinking of perming.
STOP! if your hair has been dyed or bleached lately. You see, the waving lotion of your perm kit prepares the hair for curling by stripping off the outer casing of each hair. Bleaches and dyes do the same, so bleached or dyed hair is already stripped, curls too easily, could go frizzy.
 PAUSE! before deciding that your hair is quite, safe to perm, at the slow rate of growth of the average head of hair (about half an inch per month) it can take about two years for dye or bleach to grow right out! And the long, hot summer may have left your hair sun-bleached, or extra dry, which might cause a, frizzy perm.
 GO AHEAD! and make a test curl if you're in any doubt. Perm a few strands of hair where traces of bleaching, dryness, and so on, are strongest. And time the rest of your head according to the length of time the test strands take to wave. If the curls feel sticky or show signs of breakage, postpone perming for a few months and stick to a shampoo and set. 
Planning the job properly.
START with a visit to the hairdresser, because hair that's newly cut and tapered ready for perming means the perm will have a really professional look.
 SPEND ten minutes lining up everything you'll need, cotton wool, comb, perm curlers, hairpins and rollers, bowl for waving lotion, towel or plastic cape to protect clothing, and of course perm kit.
 SPARE another few minutes to read and reread instructions, with a double check on special instructions for bleached or dyed hair,
 How often to perm? That depends on the length of your hair. If it's kept short, you’ll need to perm every eight to twelve weeks, because it's constantly being cut. Medium length hair needs perming every twelve to sixteen weeks, and long hair won't need a perm till up to nine months.

To perm or not to perm? She can be sure of success , if she follows - our advice, whether she's aiming for a curly top or a smooth bob, bouffant or sleek style

TEN WAYS TO TIP-TOP A PERM
 1. To give body to your hair without making it curly, secure the top layer of hair with, a comb or ribbon and perm only the underneath layer. Then set top hair in the usual way. See the sketch right (or click image)
2.  Always be certain to neutralize thoroughly, for this strengthens the hair and fixes the set. Inadequate neutralizing is probably to blame if your perm doesn't last long enough
3.  If you still have the remains of an old perm left in your hair, a new perm might make it frizzy. To, avoid this, start winding hair on curlers from where the straight hair begins, and leave the frizzy ends hanging out over the curlers, as shown in the sketch on , the right
(or click image)
 4.  If you're using a non-neutralizer perm, don't speed up the drying time by using a hair dryer or sitting over the fire. The hair needs its full drying time to allow the water in it to combine with oxygen to neutralize it
5. Use a good shampoo before perming, a liquid soapless one is best, and rinse it out thoroughly, because any residue can prevent lotion from penetrating the hair
6. Never wind the curlers too tightly, as this stretches the hair, and either breaks it or weakens the waves. Wind curlers under, and as close as you can to the head. For end perms, wind only as far as you want the curl to go. See the sketch right
(or click image)
 7. Start winding hair from the neckline, where it's most resistant, in small tight curls, making larger curls as you move towards the front and down sides where hair is most responsive
8. If your hair curls too easily, set it on rollers to straighten it out slightly, and give it a few minutes extra perming time. Test by unwinding occasionally to see how much longer it needs
9. For success make yourself, comfortable before you start. Choose a high, straight-backed chair, and have everything within easy reach. Winding curlers is tough on the arm muscles: relieve the strain by resting your elbows on two piles of books. See sketch right (or click image)
 1 0. No use crying over frizzed hair, there is it way to rescue hair that's been over permed. Simply comb it through with the remains of your waving lotion, set it again but don't neutralize

Woman May 28 1955 Page 11

The prettiest look this summer is casual and and carefree. . . but it's one that must be carefully planned, says HELEN TEMPLE 

the holiday look

“I'M going to spend a fortnight at a holiday camp near the sea," said Anne. "It's a big camp with lots of social life, so I do want to look nice and tidy. 

 "I'd like you to recommend a really strong type of perm, Helen. If I have that just before I go, and take plenty of grips, my hair should keep in place. And I'm sure you can tell me of a make-up that will stay put; something a bit heavier than I'm wearing now, I suppose." 

 I realized Anne had a lot to learn, 'Playing for time, I remarked that she was obviously very clever with her hair, which was carefully arranged in a curled, medium-length style,

 She was ingenious with make-up, too, Her skin had that non transparent, porcelain-smooth, pink and white look which can be effective under bright-lights but doesn't look right by the sea.

 I wouldn't like to see you-wearing a heavier make-up or a tighter perm," I told her. .. Neither would be practical for a seaside holiday.

 “Wind and sea water would play havoc with a new perm, you'd have to give it a full scale set every night, or you'd have nothing but a shapeless frizz, And a make-up which is good for parties looks all wrong with holiday clothes. 

 "You see, Anne, when you plan your holiday hairstyle and make-up, you have to scrap most of your existing ideas and start again. 

 "You should aim for the casual, easy kind of prettiness that goes with gay, simple, clothes and doesn't look as though you'd spent hours on your face and hair before going out." 

A hairstyle that stays in place not because it's anchored with too many grips, but because it's shaped to stand a few sea breezes, A light, clear make-up that can't spoil because there isn't much of it-just a transparent film for a fresh, lively skin." 

Facing new ideas

  Anne was worried at first; said that short hair wouldn't suit her because her face needed something to frame it; that her skin simply wasn't good enough to face the sunlight alone. 

 "Let's see it," I suggested, I watched Anne take off her make-up and discovered, as I'd suspected, that her way of doing this vital beauty job was extremely casual. 

 Every day for quite some time, she'd been leaving behind just enough make-up and grime to clog her pores, those tiny trouble makers that, in her case, were no longer tiny. 

 I showed her how to use a creamy liquid cleanser. Two applications, each removed with fresh cotton wool, then a final cleansing with soap and water. And, to cope with the open pore situation, a pore cream to use each night, 

 "Get your skin into a good, lively condition," I told her. "Whip up the circulation with a very soft scrubbing brush when you wash. Don't let up for a minute on your cleansing routine, and you'll soon be able to wear the minimum of make-up and look wonderfully pretty." 

 For the beach, I suggested a light-weight tinted cream or cake foundation worn without powder, This gives a beautifully natural outdoor look, but lends a pretty tint to the skin. A bright lipstick is the only other cosmetic that's necessary or appropriate. 

 Anne's a blonde, so I suggested that she use an eyelash dye before her holiday, then forget all about mascara, 

 Next we tackled the hairstyle question. Anne felt more confident now; more ready to change her ideas,  She was beginning to realize that the best beauty effects aren't the most elaborate. 

 I sketched for Anne a short hairstyle (our model wears it  the picture) which, though the hair is cut to four inches all over the head, frames the face just as prettily as a longer style. 

Brush into shape 

 “Have a very light perm soon," I suggested. Or, if your hair gets frizzy easily, just plan to pop your hair in pin curls each night, It's quickly done when your hair’s so short and a few big pin curls will brush, yes, I did say brush, out into the nicest, most natural shape," Anne was delighted with her new style, .. 

 “I see now," she said, “that I've been going to a lot of trouble for nothing. My old style did look terribly over elaborate, didn't it? This is so much prettier. It's cleverer to look as though you just hadn't bothered beyond running a comb through your hair." 

 “Much cleverer," I agreed, "As long as you have learned to bother at the planning stage."  

Simple make-up and hairstyle become the holiday girl. Sit down to pin up your curls, resting elbows comfortably. Prop up a mirror in front and your arms won't ache at all!

Woman's Own November 27 1957 Page 22/23

Give yourself hair glamour for Christmas

New Styling on a Home perm

Tight, frizzy perms are out-soft, sleek styles are in. You can get the new look. with a home perm if you really try, says DIANA DAY

THIS is the heyday of the home perm, but as every professional hairdresser knows to his advantage, there are still many unhappy attempts at it! Despite all the careful instructions supplied by manufacturers on home-perm kits, results aren’t always a success. 

 One reason why is that sometimes too much attention is paid to the perming rather than the setting. If you are planning to give yourself a home perm for Christmas, forget about trying to get the tightest possible curl, aim at putting some style into your hair instead. 

 Hair set on wide roller  curlers gives the smooth sculpted fashion styles 

4 styles from 1 set

EASY TO GET ELEGANCE 

 Variations on a theme the same girl, with four hairstyles based on one set. This is an example of an elegant, up to the minute basic hair do that any girl can copy, provided her hair is in good condition, properly shaped (that means professionally) and lightly home permed to give it body. 

The secret of success lies in the setting-on wide rollers to give that easy, flexible movement to the hair-and clever brushwork. All these variations were demonstrated by West End hairdresser Mrs. Evansky using a brush. A curved bristle brush is best to 'lift' the hair, and a little conditioning cream, or brilliantine smoothed on first, prevents it 'flying away.' 

 But no amount of dressing can really disguise hair that has been carelessly home permed. Do follow the instructions carefully! Never perm hair that is in poor condition. If you would like help in choosing which home kit to use, write to me. 

1 Fringe flattery, with the hair brushed softly forward from the crown 

2 The hair is brushed up from the forehead, then gently 'tweaked' 

3 For evening glamour, strings of pearls are cleverly wound round the top hair 

4 The wide eyed look with hair parted, and out sideways 

Ten tips for a happy home perm 

Use a mild soapless shampoo, then dry your hair so that perm solution penetrates. Don't risk vinegar, lemon or any rinse that may affect perming lotion. 

Always use the special perm curlers, or plastic rollers. Never use metal hair grips. 

Don't perm your hair before it's been professionally cut and shaped, nor within a week of any form of bleach, tint or colour rinse.

If your scalp is scratched or irritated, or you have any skin trouble, don't attempt a perm.

Start winding the hair from the nape of the neck working up and over the head, as back hair is slower to wave than new and shorter front hair. Part hair evenly and wind down to roots. When  finished there should be a network of partings over the head. A tail comb is a great help here. 

Keep an even tension when winding the hair. A tightly wound perm won't give a tighter curl. If your previous perm was too tight, take larger strands. 

Allow plenty of time for waving and neutralizing. Don't miss a curl with neutralizer because you're not working methodically over your head. 

Keep perming solution away from eyes, face and neck. Cream smeared around hairline protects sensitive skins. 

It's better to let hair dry naturally in a warm room rather than speeding it up near a fire or under a dryer. 

Don't Pity Me 

3 more easy-to-perm styles

FOR THE CURLY 
LOOK The perfect style for a girl with not too short rather thick hair. Use a full strength solution and set the hair on roller curlers according to the diagram.

The main point to watch when using roller curlers is to pin them obliquely "to the hairline, never end on. " This is to avoid the hair falling into unbecoming parting lines off the forehead. 

FOR ELEGANCE A maturer style, suitable for fine hair, and calling for smaller side curlers. Start with a centre parting and get a friend to help you with setting the back curls. Brush off the face, dress hair into broken waves, and fix with a spray of lacquer.

FOR STRAIGHT HAIR Be clever with 'difficult' hair. Instead of coming to grief with uneven curl, be content to give the hair body; with a light home perm, and set it obliquely across the head. This smooth style is based on a barely visible side parting. In this instance, take a tip from the hairdresser and shape the hair after perming. 

(click image to view)